INTRODUCTION
A necklace that encloses the neck made with precious stones on one side and enamel on the reverse. The design of the guluband draws from the country's multiple influences and cultures. It became popular during the Mughal and Nizam rule with the design of the necklace evolving to incorporate emeralds, diamonds and enamelling work.
ETYMOLOGY
The word Guluband comes from two words, the first is ‘Gala’ (neck) and the second one is 'bandh' (to close).
OTHER NAMES
Guluband is also known as Galapattia, Kantha and Katesari.
MATERIAL
Gulubands are most often made of diamonds, pearls, gold and enamelled. The diamonds are kundan foiled, table-cut and set in gold.
DESIGN
A necklace of small individual panels, each set with different gemstones, metals, or enamel in between is strung tightly together to form a choker. Some might contain a suspended fringe of pear-shaped foiled diamonds, pearls, or emerald drops. A row of pearls on either side of the plaques links the individual pieces. The back of each panel is usually enamelled.
WORN BY
Ornaments of this type are worn by Hindu brides and Bharatnatyam dancers and, previously, devadasis or temple dancers.
HOW IT'S MADE
The necklace is usually in the form of openwork square panels set with different gems and stones. It is often made of plain gold and embedded into a jewelled collar where each panel is attached to a velvet base. The identical square units are strung on a cord. Other hanging elements such as baroque emeralds or pearls are later attached with fine wire.
QUOTE
"I got it for my godh bharai, kho do bharai, for my first child from my mother-in-law almost 17 years back. When I went to the jeweller I liked this instantly and loved the emeralds and the design. I style it with my benarasis. It was the very first piece of jewellery I got after the wedding."
- Nirali Patel
HISTORIC SIGNIFICANCE
The design of the guluband draws from the country's multiple influences and cultures. It became popular during the Mughal & Nizam rule with the design evolving to incorporate emeralds, diamonds and enamelling work. Said to have to come to India from Colombia, via the Portuguese trade, emeralds are a favored gemstone used by both the Mughals and Nizams.